Category: Ask The Vet

As the calendar year approaches the holidays, you might have a lot on your mind. Perhaps you’re thinking about what type of pie to have at Thanksgiving, or maybe you’re wondering how big your Christmas tree needs to be to fill your place. If you’re a pet owner, especially of a cat, you know that they’re going to be near the top of your concerns. However, no matter how well of a cat aficionado you are, you may have forgotten one thing:

How do I keep my cat cozy during the holiday?

The winter weather will have a demonstrable effect on your feline friends, but there are many things to consider to make sure they are comfy.

Cats Sleep More During the Winter

The holidays fall around the same time that daylight outside becomes sparse. As a result, this can cause melatonin levels in pets to increase while serotonin levels to decrease. While the former leads to more lethargy or relaxation, the latter as a neurotransmitter affects mood regulation.

What does this mean for cats? More sleep! This is not to be a cause for concern, as sleeping is considered a show of being “content” with their surroundings. However, you can give your snoozy cat more light by placing their bed closer towards the window to get greater sun exposure.
Cats Eat More During the Winter
Not only does winter impact the sleeping pattern of cats, but it can affect their eating habits. The old adage of “eating more for winter hibernation” is not just for bears and other creatures in the wild. Cats increase their eating during his time in order to keep energized and warm during activity.

This is important to know if you’re concerned about your cats weight. Moderate your cat’s food intake during the winter to ensure that they are not overeating, and encourage more eating during the summer months when they are not as prone to eating as much. By tipping the “food scales” in this manner, you’ll allow your fluffy friend to keep a consistent weight right around the holidays.

Not All Cats Stay Warm During Winter

At first glance, you may think that a cat is able to survive against the harsh winds and snow of winter because of its fur. While this may be true for some cats, it definitely isn’t the gold standard for all. Cats with thicker fur will be able to handle it better, but species with thin fur will not be as lucky. This is especially true if they are “outside” pets or happen to find themselves out of the house.

To prevent your feline family member from getting hypothermia or other cold-weather ailments, consider keeping them inside at all times and blocking any exits that may get them out. Once inside, you can help keep them cozy with small sweaters or coats designed for them (provided the material does not irritate their skin). Not only will this add an extra layer of protection against cold temperatures, it allows your pet to take part in the holiday festivities!

Winter weather makes a wonder of us all, and that includes our pets. If you’re a cat owner and concerned about how the cold air will affect your little friend, don’t panic. By knowing how their sleep and eating habits will increase and what to do in case they do come across frosty temperatures, you can ensure that your cat will stay cozy through the holidays and beyond.

Sources:
https://www.petassure.com/new-newsletters/do-cats-get-cabin-fever-in-winter/
https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2014/05/140528114828.htm
https://www.purina.co.uk/cats/health-and-nutrition/grooming-and-daily-care/winter-cat-care

The cold weather is upon us, which means plenty of food, fun, and family time. It also means blistering cold winds and rainy nights. While this may be fine and well for people, it may not be ideal for your furry friends, especially if you’re looking to keep them sleeping.

To get the most out of your pup’s sleep schedule during the winter, remember:

Keep Them Inside

This may seem like a no-brainer, but keeping your pet indoors is the first line of defense against cold sleepless nights. While there is nothing wrong with having an “outside” dog, dogs are just as susceptible to cold weather as humans. In fact, dogs that are adverse to the cold weather (ex. smaller breeds or those with thinner coats) begin to feel uncomfortable when temperatures fall below 40° F. When you begin to reach the 20’s, all dogs can be affected by ailments like frostbite.

If you’re concerned with housetraining (or lack thereof) and winter, start your training earlier by autumn at the latest in preparation for winter. However, if you’re already in the midsts of the snowy season, you can still provide consistent training to get your furry friend ready for cold nights provided that the wind and snow does not disrupt your training time.

Be Mindful of Your Pet’s Sleeping Space

After you’ve gotten your furry friend indoors, they should be fine sleeping anywhere, right?

Well, not exactly.

Treat your dog as if you were sleeping: with warm blankets and bedding. Regardless if your dog is still in the kennel or sleeping in your bedroom, ensuring that they have proper bedding that is elevated from cold tiles or floors is a must for comfort. In addition, while it may appear ideal to set their bed near a heat source, bear in mind how close they are. Worst case scenario, your dog might be tempted to get closer (especially if it’s a heater or fireplace) and burn themselves on the source. Just like you did when you first brought them home, be mindful of your surroundings.

Know Why Their Sleep is Changing

Dogs typically sleep more during the wintertime than in any other season as a result of light exposure. During these months when light is sparse, your dog’s melatonin (the hormone related to sleep) levels go up while their serotonin (the neurotransmitter that regulates mood) conversely goes down. The resulting shift in chemicals in the brain can cause more sleep along with more lethargy.

This is not to say that it should be a cause for immediate concern (though there have been some associations with Seasonal Affective Disorder and dogs during the winter), but it does mean less playtime with your pup. If you’re looking to regulate their sleep during the day, consider increasing their light exposure naturally by taking them outside during the brightest daytime hours, keeping their bed or kennel near the window, or using artificial lights that closely resemble sunlight. This process could slowly invert the aforementioned melatonin-serotonin levels and provide your dog with more energy to play and explore.

This holiday season, make your dog’s tail wag with glee by giving them the best sleep possible. By keeping them inside, providing them with a safe and comfortable bed, and keeping an eye on their nap times, you make snowy nights feel as comfortable as sunny days.

Sources:
https://www.petmd.com/dog/care/how-cold-too-cold-dog
https://www.therapydogs.com/dog-care-winter-months/
https://topdogtips.com/do-dogs-sleep-more-in-winter/

QUESTION:

My tortoise recently woke up from hibernation and seems really weak and won’t eat normally.  What should I do?

ANSWER:

We have a lot of tortoises in this area because the great climate on the central coast makes it an ideal place for many tortoise species to thrive.  Unfortunately, my clinic sees a lot of tortoises that wake up from hibernation in poor condition.  During hibernation a tortoise’s metabolism slows down significantly.  Many species have to survive without food and water for months.  It is a major drain on these tortoises’ bodies and, if they enter hibernation in less than optimal condition, they can become ill or even die in the process.  Ideally, pre and post hibernation exams should be performed to screen for problems.

The most common problem experienced post hibernation is upper respiratory disease.  Signs include nasal bubbling, puffy eyes, oral ulcerations, and noise breathing.  Causes are usually viral or bacterial, and these pets require supportive care (hydration, nutritional support and warmth) and sometimes antibiotics to recover.  If you see these signs, or the signs you described in your question, you should take your tortoise to an exotics veterinarian as soon as possible.

On exam, your veterinarian should check the tortoise for other concurrent illnesses that may have predisposed the tortoise to the respiratory infection.  A thorough history to ensure there is nothing missing in the care, as well as fecal analysis to check for parasites, lab screening to check for organ disease, and radiographs to look for physical problems (bladder stone, foreign body in the intestinal tract, etc) should help complete the picture of the tortoise’s health.  The prognosis for a tortoise with upper respiratory disease is usually good if the tortoise is evaluated and cared for quickly after noticing the symptoms.

 

If you have a veterinary question that you would like to propose for an upcoming edition, please send it to email@catandexoticcare.com with “ask the vet” in the subject line.

Max Conn, DVM is the owner of Cat & Exotic Care of the CentralCoast, a full service veterinary hospital dedicated to the special needs of cats, birds, reptiles and small mammals.  Cat & Exotic Care is located in PismoCoastPlaza, 565 Five Cities Drive, 805-773-0228.  More information can be found at www.catandexoticcare.com.

 

Disclaimer: The informational handouts and website links above are for informational purposes only, they are not intended to replace veterinary care.

QUESTION:

I’ve noticed that my tortoise has been straining and grunting when going to the bathroom recently and only urates are coming out.  What does this mean?

ANSWER:

Unlike mammals, when reptiles eliminate waste, both the urine and stool components come out at the same time from a single opening.  The urine appears as a chalky white material, called urates, sometimes accompanied with a transparent liquid component.  The stool is the dark part of the dropping.  If the appearance of the normal dropping has changed, there is usually a medical reason.  One reason that a tortoise would have only urates passing is if it has not been eating normally.  In this instance there are few or no stools in the digestive tract coming through, so only urine/urates are passed.   If the cause of the decreased appetite is not obvious, medical assistance with a reptile vet is recommended.  Typically this scenario does not lead to straining, so it unlikely to be the cause of your tortoise’s symptoms.

Since your tortoise is straining and vocalizing there is probably a physical problem.  This may include blockage with a foreign object or mass in the digestive tract, a stone in the cloaca (the chamber that stores the feces and urine/urates before elimination), inflammation from parasites or other infection, or even problems passing an egg (in a female tortoise).  Ultimately, the tortoise should be seen for examination and testing to determine the cause and necessary treatments.

This week I saw a tortoise with similar symptoms.  It was straining and grunting and making quite a commotion.  Upon exam it was determined that it had a stone in the cloaca, called a cloacolith.  With the tortoise under anesthesia, I was able to break down and flush out the chalky and sharp-edged stone, comprised of layers of urates, to relive the obstruction.  Fortunately, the tortoise seemed much more comfortable after the procedure.

 

If you have a veterinary question that you would like to propose for an upcoming edition, please send it to email@catandexoticcare.com with “ask the vet” in the subject line.

Max Conn, DVM is the owner of Cat & Exotic Care of the CentralCoast, a full service veterinary hospital dedicated to the special needs of cats, birds, reptiles and small mammals.  Cat & Exotic Care is located in PismoCoastPlaza, 565 Five Cities Drive, 805-773-0228.  More information can be found at www.catandexoticcare.com.

 

Disclaimer: The informational handouts and website links above are for informational purposes only, they are not intended to replace veterinary care.

QUESTION:

I have two baby red eared slider turtles.  I have them in a 10 gallon tank, but realize that they need more space.  What is the ideal tank size?

ANSWER:

The short answer is- the bigger the better.  A pond would be great!  Red eared sliders are very messy and require a lot of space and regular tank maintenance.  Even the babies should ideally be kept in a 30 gallon aquarium at a minimum.  The water depth should be at least 1.5 to 2 times your turtle’s total shell length plus several extra inches of air space between the surface of the water and the top edge of the tank to prevent escapes.  These turtles grow relatively quickly and, when fully grown, are about the size of a dinner plate.

Planning ahead with a sufficient sized aquarium is important.  Overcrowding leads to poor tank hygiene, stress, and eventually an assortment of illnesses.  Proper water filtering systems are necessary to keep the water reasonably fresh between the weekly water changes.  Feeding your turtle(s) in a separate tank or plastic container may also help to keep the water cleaner between changes.

Habitat size is significant to the health of many other species of reptiles, birds, and small mammals and is one of the aspects of general care that is often not well planned.  A cute 1-2oz sulcata tortoise will not do well in any size indoor enclosure when it is a full grown 150 lb adult!  The same goes for that cute baby giant snake (i.e., anaconda) or baby monitor lizard.  Parrots are also all too often housed in cages that are too small.  We frequently see obesity (from lack of exercise), wing damage and behavioral problems as a result.  As always, research your new pet and come up with an appropriate habitat before you purchase.  Talk to your experienced exotic animal vet for additional ideas on care.  In some cases, once you realize what it will take to keep your exotic pet happy and healthy, you may have second thoughts about your choice of pet.  Proper care of an exotic pet often involves a significant time and money investment.

 

If you have a veterinary question that you would like to propose for an upcoming edition, please send it to email@catandexoticcare.com with “ask the vet” in the subject line.

Max Conn, DVM is the owner of Cat & Exotic Care of the CentralCoast, a full service veterinary hospital dedicated to the special needs of cats, birds, reptiles and small mammals.  Cat & Exotic Care is located in PismoCoastPlaza, 565 Five Cities Drive, 805-773-0228.  More information can be found at www.catandexoticcare.com.

 

Disclaimer: The informational handouts and website links above are for informational purposes only, they are not intended to replace veterinary care.

QUESTION:

Does the bedding that I use in my pet’s cage really matter?  I have a guinea pig and a bearded dragon.

ANSWER:

The decision of which substrate (ground cover or “bedding”) to use seems very basic, yet the ramifications of making a poor selection can be serious.  The quick answer to your question is: use something that is absorbent, non-aromatic, easy to clean, non-toxic, cost-effective, and hygienic.  My preferences in order from best to worst are: (1) compressed newspaper pellets (for both of your pets); (2) shredded or un-shredded newspaper or paper towels (both pets); (3) “Care-fresh” type bedding (most small mammals); (4) aspen pine shavings (most small mammals); and (5) “astro-turf” type substrates (many reptiles).

Recycled compressed newspaper pellets (such as Yesterday’s News) are always my number one choice because they are among the most absorbent of any of the beddings, they are affordable, they are non-toxic if accidentally consumed, they do not promote fungal, bacterial, or parasitic infestation, they are easy to clean/replace, they are non-aromatic, and they are environmentally friendly.

I need to elaborate on this subject because there are many additional options offered for sale and regularly selected that make bad choices for your pet.  When you consider the limited floor size of the average terrarium, the elimination habits of many small exotic pets, and the frequency with which the entire substrate is completely changed out and cage disinfected, you can easily end up with disaster when a poor substrate choice is made.  Many of the options available provide fuel and enough moisture for bacteria and fungi to grow and a good place for parasite eggs to accumulate and survive.  For example, food by-product particulates (corn cob hulls, crushed walnut shells, alfalfa pellets, hay, etc) and beddings often promote spot cleaning rather than entire substrate change-outs (sands, mulch, soils, etc) due to time and money constraints, which, in turn leads to bacteria and fungi growth.  Another dangerous category of bedding is one that is commonly ingested, often leading to impactions (sands, cat litter, and aquarium gravels and stones).  Aromatics such as cedar, red wood and some pines can damage the respiratory tract and promote airway infections and inflammation.

Ultimately, no matter what bedding is chosen it still needs to be cleaned out in its entirety on a very regular basis.  Remember spot cleaning only removes the visible waste material.  Fungi, bacteria, viruses, and parasite eggs are microscopic and can’t be effectively removed with spot cleaning.  One final note- make the substrate span as large an area as possible (in other words, get big cage).  Would you want to live, eat, and drink in close proximity to where you go to the bathroom?

 

If you have a veterinary question that you would like to propose for an upcoming edition, please send it to email@catandexoticcare.com with “ask the vet” in the subject line.

Max Conn, DVM is the owner of Cat & Exotic Care of the CentralCoast, a full service veterinary hospital dedicated to the special needs of cats, birds, reptiles and small mammals.  Cat & Exotic Care is located in PismoCoastPlaza, 565 Five Cities Drive, 805-773-0228.  More information can be found at www.catandexoticcare.com.

 

Disclaimer: The informational handouts and website links above are for informational purposes only, they are not intended to replace veterinary care.

QUESTION:

Do all reptiles need special lighting?  What light source is necessary for my pet bearded dragon?

ANSWER:

Many reptiles have an absolute requirement for ultraviolet (UV) light, specifically in the b wavelength (UVB).  Bearded dragons are among the reptiles that have a very high requirement for UVB light.  Also on this list are iguanas, water dragons, uromastyx, chuckwallas, anoles, tegus, monitors, skinks, most varieties of turtle and tortoise, as well as many others.

Reptiles have adapted to use this light for a chemical reaction in their skin that helps them to maintain a normal calcium balance in the body.  Without UVB, many reptiles are unable to regulate their calcium and, over the long-term, end up with very weak and sometimes thickened bones, muscle tremors, and eventually die of complications (called metabolic bone disease).

Sources of UVB light include the sun and artificial sources such as mercury vapor bulbs and UVB producing fluorescent bulbs.  Generally, the sun and certain high quality mercury vapor bulbs are ideal for a pet bearded dragon.  Even the most powerful fluorescent UVB bulbs are only marginally acceptable, as they put out comparatively much less UVB wavelength light.  Keep in mind that the reptile must be able to get in direct contact with the UVB source.  Sunlight coming through a window or a UVB bulb with a plastic cover will not provide your pet with any useful beams.

UVB bulbs are available at most local pet stores.  It is best to have each bulb professionally tested shortly after purchase to ensure that it is actually producing appropriate levels of UVB.  You can’t always count on the label specifications, as some bulbs are poor performers.  The testing usually can be done (for a nominal fee) by a reptile veterinarian who is equipped with a UVB meter.  Each bulb should be tested every 6 months to make sure it is still effective.  Since UV light is not visible to the human eye, you will not be able to determine the efficacy of the bulb without testing it.  The particulars for your pet’s UVB setup should be discussed with your reptile vet as part of each annual wellness exam.

 

If you have a veterinary question that you would like to propose for an upcoming edition, please send it to email@catandexoticcare.com with “ask the vet” in the subject line.

Max Conn, DVM is the owner of Cat & Exotic Care of the CentralCoast, a full service veterinary hospital dedicated to the special needs of cats, birds, reptiles and small mammals.  Cat & Exotic Care is located in PismoCoastPlaza, 565 Five Cities Drive, 805-773-0228.  More information can be found at www.catandexoticcare.com.

 

Disclaimer: The informational handouts and website links above are for informational purposes only, they are not intended to replace veterinary care.

QUESTION: 

I am considering buying a tortoise.  Are there any issues particular to tortoises that I should be aware of?  What type of tortoise makes the best pet for a first-time owner?

ANSWER:

Prior to buying a “land turtle” or tortoise, you need to carefully consider many issues.  First, how long of a commitment do you want to make?  Many tortoise species live for decades.   Second, how much space do you have for the tortoise?  Some species grow to over 100 pounds.

As with all pets, there are many care (husbandry) considerations that have to be carefully planned out at each stage of life.  For tortoises these include proper heat and humidity ranges within the habitat, proper light cycle and UVB exposure, adequate habitat size (and, if housed outdoors, proper shelter and escape-proof boundaries), appropriate bedding, proper diet (this is a big one), adequate hiding areas, proper cleanliness and habitat hygiene, appropriate cage-mates (none in some cases), and external stressors (room too noisy, etc).

Planning for the proper care of a tortoise requires a considerable amount of research (from appropriate sources) and investment of both time and money. A good starting point is a consultation with a reputable reptile veterinarian.  In addition to giving you advice and information on caring for your tortoise, your veterinarian can provide you with recommendations regarding choosing the species that best fits your lifestyle.  What type of tortoise is best for you really depends on your situation.  Since many (but not all) of the box turtle species are relatively hardy, friendly, relatively easy to care for, and do not get very big, I often suggest them to clients who are considering getting their first tortoise.  Consider this advice before you bring home that adorable three inch-long baby African spurred tortoise (Geochelone sulcata) with the 100 year life expectancy and adult weight of 70-100 pounds!

 

If you have a veterinary question that you would like to propose for an upcoming edition, please send it to email@catandexoticcare.com with “ask the vet” in the subject line.

Max Conn, DVM is the owner of Cat & Exotic Care of the CentralCoast, a full service veterinary hospital dedicated to the special needs of cats, birds, reptiles and small mammals.  Cat & Exotic Care is located in PismoCoastPlaza, 565 Five Cities Drive, 805-773-0228.  More information can be found at www.catandexoticcare.com.

 

Disclaimer: The informational handouts and website links above are for informational purposes only, they are not intended to replace veterinary care.

QUESTION: 

Do you have any advice for someone who is considering buying a turtle or tortoise?

ANSWER:

Before purchasing a turtle or tortoise, you need to consider that it takes a considerable amount of time and money to properly care for these reptiles.   You also need to keep in mind that many species live a very long time, and several grow to a very large size. This is not a pet that you want to buy on an impulse.

There are many care (husbandry) considerations that have to be carefully planned out and provided at each life stage.  These include proper heat and humidity ranges within the habitat, proper light cycle and UVB exposure, sufficient habitat size (and if housed outdoors- proper shelter and escape-proof boundaries), appropriate bedding, proper diet (this is a big one), adequate hiding areas, proper cleanliness and habitat hygiene, appropriate cage-mates (none in some cases), and external stressors (room too noisy, etc).

A good starting point would be a consultation with a reputable reptile veterinarian on recommended species to purchase and recommended resources and information on proper husbandry.

 

Question:  What is the biggest danger to a person owning a turtle/tortoise and vice versa?

The biggest danger for the turtle owner is zoonotic disease (ones that can be spread from reptile to man). These include various bacterial (i.e., salmonella), protozoal, fungal, viral, and parasitic diseases.

The biggest danger for the chelonian is improper care (as described above).  The second is predators (the household dog, cat or child) or escaping and becoming lost or injured.

Caring for chelonians or any reptile for that matter is a serious undertaking. The care should never be left up to a child and should not be tackled without proper research on the species of interest. It requires an investment of time and money to do the job properly. It can, however, be very rewarding, as you get the opportunity to bond with your new pet and learn interesting things about its anatomy, care, and behaviors. Please do your homework before you buy. There is a saying in reptile medicine that most owners slowly kill their pet reptiles. Although there is great truth to this, it does not have to be the case. With proper husbandry and regular veterinary visits (like you would do with any pet) your pet tortoise or turtle can live a long and contented life.

 

If you have a veterinary question that you would like to propose for an upcoming edition, please send it to email@catandexoticcare.com with “ask the vet” in the subject line.

Max Conn, DVM is the owner of Cat & Exotic Care of the CentralCoast, a full service veterinary hospital dedicated to the special needs of cats, birds, reptiles and small mammals.  Cat & Exotic Care is located in PismoCoastPlaza, 565 Five Cities Drive, 805-773-0228.  More information can be found at www.catandexoticcare.com.

 

Disclaimer: The informational handouts and website links above are for informational purposes only, they are not intended to replace veterinary care.

QUESTION:

I’m thinking about getting a small pet for my kids (kids are 6 and 9 years old).  Would a hedgehog be a good or bad idea?  How long do they live?  Are they low maintenance?

ANSWER:

I cannot recommend a pet African Pigmy Hedgehog in the state of California because they are illegal to own here.  My answer would be different if you were considering ownership in a state where they are legal.  I do, however, see this species in my clinic for medical treatment, and consider them to be nice pets if and only if they are well-socialized.  An unsocialized hedgehog is like having a softball sized jumping ball with sharp quills – definitely not fun to hold or to play with!

Hedgehogs are curious, busy little creatures that can be tamed down with consistent, frequent, and gentle handling.  I once adopted a very unsocialized hedgehog from a frustrated owner, and it took several months of daily handling (with gloves) to finally tame her down.  In the end, she became a very friendly pet and I was able to handle her with bare hands because she kept her spines laid down flat.  By nature, hedgehogs are a very defensive animal, and their automatic response to new or stressful stimuli is to ball up, hiss, and jump with their spines standing erect.  That is why it is so important to handle them frequently so that your hedgehog does not consider you to be new or stressful!

In its most basic form the care includes providing clean and fresh absorbent bedding (such as compressed paper pellets), a diet that is predominantly fresh kibbles (high quality kitten or hedgehog specific), fresh water (sipper bottle), good air ventilation, hiding spots, warmth, and opportunities for activity and exercise.  Many hedgehogs can be taught to exercise on a large “hamster” style wheel.   Keep in mind that this species is nocturnal, so you don’t want to keep it in the bedroom of a light sleeper.

I consider the maintenance to be relatively low, but everyone’s tolerance for pet maintenance is different.  Bedding should be spot cleaned daily and changed out twice a week, water and food bowls should be cleaned and refreshed daily, and at least 10 minutes per day of handling is essential.  An annual visit to an exotics vet is strongly recommended to screen for parasites (common) and other health issues, as well as to ensure that the proper home care is in place.  Appropriate care should ensure your hedgehog reaches the full life expectancy of 4-6 years.

 

If you have a veterinary question that you would like to propose for an upcoming edition, please send it to email@catandexoticcare.com with “ask the vet” in the subject line.

Max Conn, DVM is the owner of Cat & Exotic Care of the CentralCoast, a full service veterinary hospital dedicated to the special needs of cats, birds, reptiles and small mammals.  Cat & Exotic Care is located in PismoCoastPlaza, 565 Five Cities Drive, 805-773-0228.  More information can be found at www.catandexoticcare.com.

 

Disclaimer: The informational handouts and website links above are for informational purposes only, they are not intended to replace veterinary care.