Category: How to Care For…

Basic Chinchilla Care

Diet:

• Commercial chinchilla pellets (I prefer Oxbow brand) @ 1-2 tbsp/day
• Free choice timothy or grass hay
• Dark Leafy Greens: Mustard greens, Endive, Kale, Carrot tops, Turnip Greens, Dandelion, etc.
• If offered at all, grains, dried apples, raisins, figs and seeds/nuts should be limited to no more than 1 tsp/day
• Clean, fresh water.  Sipper tubes are preferred.
• Porous stones (pumice), young branches of trees (elm, grapevines, maple, birch) and bark (apple, pear, and peach trees).  Avoid poisonous trees.

Housing:

Multilevel cage (minimally 6.6’x6.6’x3.3’) with a wooden nest box and a dust bath (typically offered twice a week).

Facts

life span:…………………………… 10 yrs average

weight……………………………… 400-600 grms

maturity……………………………. 8 months

estrous cycle……………………… seasonally polyestrous

length………………………………. 30-50 days

ovulation………………………….. spontaneous

gestation period………………… 105-118 days

litter size…………………………… 1-6 (2 on ave)

normal birth weight……………. 30-50 grms

weaning age……………………… 6-8 weeks

temperature………………………. 98.6-100.4F

heart rate …………………………. 100-150 bpm (at rest)

Force feeding:

Mix blenderized alphalpha pellets (1 part), mixed vegetables (3 parts), add water as needed to make a pancake batter consistency.  Feed 2-3x a day until eating better.  Oxbow makes a superior product called Critical Care that is available at your local veterinarian office.

Flea control:

Advantage:  Apply 2 drops to level of skin between shoulder blades.

 

Veterinary care:

As with other exotic species, annual exams are recommended to provide the best opportunity to detect and treat sub-clinical diseases (hidden problems).  Fecal exams are also a good idea to evaluate for parasites, protozoa’s and certain bacteria.  After 4-5 years of age, we also recommend annual blood screening and in some cases screening radiographs (jaw, thorax and abdomen).

 

Most common reasons for veterinary evaluation:

Nutritional (diet related)

Trauma

Dental Disease

Digestive Tract Disorders

Fur/skin disorders

Note:

This handout is only a very basic guide for Chinchilla care.  We recommend that you invest in some books on the subject and ask your vet any questions that you come up with.

Care of Green Iguana

 The green Iguana (Iguana iguana) is one of the most frequently purchased reptiles and one of the most frequent reptiles to visit the  veterinary office.  Often, the pet owner is not given proper information as to the needs of iguanas at the time of acquired.  It may be weeks to months before the devastating effects of improper diet, internal parasites or incorrect housing conditions take their toll, and the pet becomes ill.  This handout is a brief overview of care, but we recommend that you purchase a copy of The General Care and Maintenance of the Green Iguana by Philippe de Vosjoli for more detailed care.

Iguanas are diurnal, arboreal, tropical lizards of Central and South America.  They have been introduced into south Florida, and are currently predominantly bred in captivity.  In the wild, iguanas are virtually herbivorous, eating fibrous jungle leaves, flowers, and fruits.  They rely on fermentation of complex carbohydrates in their colon to produce 30-40% of the energy available from their diet.  The required bacteria are acquired in hatchlings by eating the feces of adult iguanas.  Iguanas facilitate this fermentation process and regulate their body temperature by basking in the sun, seeking temperatures above 85 degrees F (30 degrees C).  Their social rank is reflected in the prominence of their basking sites.  Adult animals may reach a length of 6 feet and weigh as much as 15 pounds, a fact that should be considered when purchasing that cute little green lizard in the pet store!  Adult animals require a large amount of cage space and may be quite dangerous to handle.  Their razor sharp teeth can inflict serious injuries and the tail when lashed can also cause skin lacerations or eye injuries (not to mention the pain that can be inflicted by their sharp claws).

HOUSING

Providing the proper temperature, humidity, and light requirements for an iguana is critical for the animal to survive in captivity.  Iguanas should be housed in large glass, plexiglas, or wooden cages.  A 20-gallon or larger aquarium is a good size to start with, as these reptiles grow at a very rapid rate in their first several months of life.  The cage should be lined with newspaper, artificial grass (astro-turf), or indoor-outdoor carpeting, with ease of cleaning being the most important consideration.  My preferred substrate is newspaper, because it is cheap and easiest to clean (just throw it away).  Do not use gravel, sand, soil, or kitty litter because the iguana may eat pieces of these materials and then develop a potentially fatal intestinal impaction.  These materials are also difficult on the animal’s skin, if they become dirty or are continually damp.  In general, stay away from organic beddings like mulch, walnut shells, coconut, corncob, etc as they are hard to disinfect and can harbor infectious organisms.

A water bowl should be provided with fresh water and changed daily for the animal to drink out of and soak in.  The bathtub and sink is also a good place for a daily swim for your pet.  It is better not to use a sink in which food is prepared, due to the risk of Salmonella contamination (if your pet is harboring this bacterial agent).   Ask your vet about the potential for Salmonella infection in these animals.  Many pets will defecate only when in water, which may make it easier for cleanup.

Humidity in the tank can be provided by lightly misting the area several times a day, adding an air stone driven by an aquarium pump into the water bowl, or with the use of a humidity box.  (See attached sheet on the construction of a humidity box).

A hiding area is critical for the animal’s mental well being.  The humidity box may be used for this, or any cardboard, wood or plastic container that is of sufficient size for the pet to enter and turn around in will suffice.

TEMPERATURE AND LIGHTLING

Iguanas are tropical lizards and should have supplemental heat added to their environment.  We do not approve of “hot rocks” being used for this purpose.  We frequently see serious thermal burns on the underside of baby iguanas caused by the uneven heating of the hot rock that in some instances has lead to death.  There should be a temperature gradient in the cage; meaning one should not attempt to make the environment the same temperature.  Under cage heating can be provided by a heating pad left on twenty-four hours a day and put UNDER the tank so that the animal does not have direct contact with it.  There are several types of specially made reptile heaters of varying sizes, some with thermostatic controls.  In addition, the pet needs a “hot basking spot” provided in the cage by an overhead heat and light source (a ceramic bulb works well).  The temperature in this area needs to reach 90 to 100 degrees F.  This light should be left on only 10-14 hours per day and should be turned off at night.  Putting the light on a timer is helpful.  Nighttime temperatures may drop to 70-75 degrees F.  Allowing your pet to live at “room temperature” all the time with no chance for thermoregulation will lead to serious health problems over time (it may take several years).  An inexpensive digital thermometer with a probe can be purchased at Radio Shack, and can be used to measure many points in the terrarium to ensure a proper heat gradient.

There is ongoing controversy about the usefulness of UV light in the captive iguana’s environment.  We know that certain types of UV light are important in helping Vitamin D production in the animal’s skin, which in turn is essential in facilitating the absorption of calcium into the body.  The question is whether the various light sources that claim to be most like sunlight are really doing the job.  The answer is that there is no substitute for natural sunlight, (none of the light bulbs currently on the market can absolutely reproduce sunlight).  However, since we live in a climate that prevents us from keeping our pets out doors all year (and glass windows block UV light rays out) we recommend using bulbs that provide at least some source of UV rays.  Vitalite and Chromalux bulbs are two that we recommend currently and should be placed so that the pet is no more than two feet away from the light source.  The advantage of Chromalux is that it is also a heat-producing bulb.  Consult with your veterinarian on proper light sources, because some bulbs can be harmful to the pet’s eyes.  UV bulbs need to be replaced every 6 months, because after that they no longer provide a useful spectrum.

We highly recommend during the warm summer months when the temperature is 80 degrees or higher, that you expose your pet to natural sunlight.  We recommend building an outdoor playpen with a shaded area where your pet can spend time on nice days.  Even putting your iguana on a harness and leash and “sunbathing” together with your pet can produce tremendous benefit.

DIET

This is the single most difficult area to manage in the pet iguana.  The most common disease problem that we see in pet iguanas is calcium and or vitamin D deficiency, which leads to stunted growth, softened and broken bones, muscle tremors, seizures, and death.  Juvenile iguanas have different dietary requirements than adult iguanas, a subject of which is still open to much discussion.  There are now various pelleted, ground, and frozen iguana diets available on the market, many claiming to be “complete”.  It is dangerous to use any of these foods as the total diet because dietary deficiencies are still seen despite the companies glowing claims.  If prepackaged diets are used, they should comprise no more than 75% of the total diet with the remaining 25% fed in the form of plant material (see examples of plant material below).  Vitamin and mineral supplementation may be eliminated altogether because the prepackaged diets already contain these materials.

If you are making up a diet of your own, you may want to follow these guidelines.  (Again, we urge you to consult The General Care and Maintenance of the Green Iguana by Philippe de Vosjoli for additional suggestions).

Juvenile “baby” iguanas (less than a foot in length from nose to vent – exclude the tail) can be fed a diet of 20% plant protein foods along with a variety of leafy vegetables, non-leafy vegetables, and a small amount of fruits.  They should be fed daily.

Medium “adolescent” iguanas (less than a foot in length from nose to vent – exclude the tail) can be fed about 15% protein and the rest as in the juvenile.  These should still be fed daily.

Large adult iguanas (1 – 1 ½ feet in length from nose to vent – exclude the tail or any time growth has stopped) can be fed 10% protein in the diet.  Some adult pets may only eat 2 to 3 times a week.  Concentrate on the leafy veggies and limit high phosphorous foods (those with an asterisk on the calcium chart included in this handout).

All food should be chopped up in small pieces, mixed well, and fed only in amounts that will be eaten within a few hours.  This will ensure that ALL foods are eaten and ALL the supplements are taken in.

Examples of plant protein foods:  Tofu, rabbit, guinea pig, or alfalfa pellets (put into a blender dry, ground into a powder and sprinkled over the food), wheat grass and alfalfa sprouts.  WE NO LONGER RECOMMEND USING ANIMAL PROTEIN SUCH AS DOG FOOD OR TROUT CHOW IN THE GREEN IGUANA DIET.  Although the use of animal protein has caused rapid growth as a youngster, it is now one of the factors suspected of causing kidney disease as the animal ages.

Examples of plant material: Use at least 75% of the plant material as dark green leafy vegetablessuch as mustard greens, dandelion greens, kale, Swiss chard, endive, romaine lettuce, carrot tops, turnip, and beet greens.  This is to satisfy not only the fiber requirements but also the calcium requirements.  One should use a minimum of three different greens daily.  The excessive use of only one or two items may lead to nutritional disease.  The rest of the plant material can be composed of vegetables such as squash (of any type), green beans, pea pods, tomatoes, broccoli, okra, carrot, cooked sweat potato, and fruits such as papaya, mango, berries, melon and banana.  The more items that are mixed together, the greater the chances that proper nutrition is covered adequately. *Consult the section of this handout on calcium-phosphorous content of selected foods).

SUPPLEMENTS

There are many experts that feel that supplements are not needed in a properly fed iguana.  My feeling is that so few iguanas are properly fed, that supplements are often of some benefit, especially during the juvenile stages of rapid growth.  Below are some basic guidelines.  These guidelines are not true for pets that are on commercially prepared diets (often the supplements are built in).  If you are unsure, consult your veterinarian.  Also in cases of nutritional disease you may be instructed to use different guidelines.

 

Calcium/Vitamin D tablets: For baby and adolescent iguanas use a chunk the size of their eye every other day.  For adult iguanas use the same amount, 1-2 times a week.  Chewable tablets are accepted more readily.

Calcium/Vitamin D powder: For babies and adolescents use approximately 1/16 tsp. per every 6 inches of body length (excluding the tail) every other day.  For adults, same amount, only 1-2 times a week.

Calcium only supplement: This is probably preferable for daily or frequent use as it is less likely to cause overdose of Vitamin D.  Neocalglucon is a readily available safe source of calcium that comes as a palatable liquid.  Use approximately 0.10cc per each 100-200 grams of body weight daily or every other day in babies and juveniles.  Use the same, 1-2 times a week in adults.  Crushed Tums (calcium carbonate) is another good calcium-only source.

Multivitamin supplement: For babies and adolescents use approximately 1/16 tsp. per every 6 inches of body length (exclude the tail) every other day.  For adults, same amount, only 1-2 times a week.

Remember, the more balanced and varied your pets natural diet is, (especially if at least 75% of the food items are from the list of good calcium sources off the calcium chart), the less dependent your pet will need to be on supplements.  Supplementation of vitamins and minerals is not a substitute for a good diet, and may lead to disease problems.  Provide a warm environment with exposure to natural sunlight, if possible, to further enhance your chances of successful assimilation of nutrients.

CALCIUM AND PHOSPHOROUS CONTENT OF SELECTED FOODS

The following charts show the total amount of calcium and phosphorous in 1-cup portions of selected foods.  One need not look only at the total milligram (mg) amount of calcium, but also the Calcium:Phosphorous ration.  This ratio should be close to 1:0.5 for the best calcium absorption.  The higher the phosphorous amount compared to the calcium, the poorer the absorption of calcium in the body.

GOOD CALCIUM SOURCES

1 cup portion                                                           Calcium                  Phosphorous                           Ca:P Ratio

 

Turnip greens                                                          106                          24                                            1:0.2

Chinese Cabbage                                                      74                            26                                            1:0.4

Mustard Greens                                                       104                          58                                            1:0.3

Leeks                                                                       60                            36                                            1:0.6

Watercress                                                                                               40                                            20            1:0.5

Chard                                                                       102                          58                                            1:0.5

Collards (cooked)                                                    148                          19                                            1:0.1

Kale                                                                         98                            36                                            1:0.4

Dandelion Greens                                                    104                          36                                            1:0.3

Endive                                                                     23                            14                                            1:0.6

Beet Greens                                                             164                          58                                            1:0.4

Dark Green Leaf Lettuce                                          28                            14                                            1:0.5

Parsley                                                                     78                            24                                            1:0.3

Spinach                                                                    56                            28                                            1:0.5

Yellow wax beans                                                    174                          34                                            1:0.2

Blackberries                                                             46                            30                                            1:0.6

Papaya                                                                     72                            16                                            1:0.2

MODERATE CALCIUM SOURCES

Cabbage (inside white leaves)                                  46mg                       34mg                                       1:0.7

Strawberries                                                             42mg                       56mg                                       1:1.3

Turnips                                                                    36mg                       30mg                                       1:0.8

Okra                                                                        100mg                     90mg                                       1:0.9

Raspberries                                                              27mg                       15mg                                       1:0.5

Green Beans                                                            58mg                       48mg                                       1:0.8

Guavas                                                                    18mg                       23mg                                       1:1.3

Apples                                                                     10mg                       10mg                                       1:1

Pears                                                                        15mg                       18mg                                       1:1.2

Mango                                                                     21mg                      22mg                                       1:1

Radish                                                                     24mg                       20mg                                       1:0.8

Eggplant                                                                   30mg                       26mg                                       1:0.8

Romaine Lettuce                                                      20mg                       26mg                                       1:1.3

 

POOR CALCIUM SOURCES

Parsnips                                                                   58                            108                                          1:1.9*

Rutabaga                                                                  72                            84                                            1:1.2

Blueberries                                                              18                            30                                            1:1.6

Squash (summer all varieties)                                  26                            46                                            1:1.8*

Zucchini                                                                  20                            42                                            1:2.1*

Carrots                                                                     28                            64                                            1:2.3*

Cantaloupe                                                               17                            27                                            1:0.9

Yams                                                                       18                            66                                            1:3.6*

Apricots                                                                   15                            21                                            1:1.4

Plums                                                                      4                              14                                            1:3.5*

Beets                                                                        18                            26                                            1:1.4

Cherries (pitted)                                                       10                            13                                            1:1.3

Cauliflower                                                              28                            46                                            1:1.6

Grapes                                                                     13                            9                                              1:0.7

Peaches                                                                    5                              11                                            1:2.2*

Cucumber                                                                14                            18                                            1:1.3

Pumpkin                                                                  36                            74                                            1:2.1*

Sweet potato                                                            64                            124                                          1:1.9*

Lettuce (head, iceberg)                                             16                            16                                            1:1.0

Asparagus                                                                44                            108                                          1:2.5*

Tomato                                                                    16                            58                                            1:3.6*

Pineapple                                                                 11                            11                                            1:1.1

Bananas                                                                   7                              22                                            1:3.1*

Peas (any kind)                                                        38                            168                                          1:4.4*

Brussel Sprouts                                                       56                            88                                            1:1.6

 

1 cup portion                                                           Calcium                  Phosphorous                           Ca:P Ratio

Mushrooms                                                             4                              72                                            1:18*

Corn                                                                        10                            120                                          1:12*

Alfalfa sprouts                                                         20                            46                                            1:2.3*

Beets                                                                        26                            42                                            1:1.6

Kidney beans                                                           100                          504                                          1:5*

Lima beans                                                              64                            416                                          1:6.5*

Bean sprouts                                                            14                            56                                            1:4*

White potato                                                            16                            104                                          1:6.5*

Green Peppers                                                         6                              22                                            1:3.6*

If you are feeding a pet that needs a good calcium source (such as iguanas or other herbivorous lizards), feed at least 75% of the diet selected from the good calcium source table.  Feed only small amounts from the moderate and poor calcium source groups.

If you are instructed to feed your pet a diet that is low in calcium, then concentrate on foods in the poor and moderate calcium sources groups or choose those in the high calcium group that have a low milligram amount of calcium.  If your pet is also on a calorie restricted diet, consult your veterinarian for exact amounts to feed (some of these foods may be high in calories).

Foods marked with an asterisk (*) SHOULD BE AVOIDED IN ANIMALS WITH KIDNEY DISEASE due to their high phosphorous content.

Calcium and phosphorous values were adapted from Bowes and Church’s Food Values of Portions Commonly Used revised by Jean A.T. Pennington, Ph.D., RD  15th edition.  Published by Harper Perennial 1989.  Pages 94-102 and 190-211.

HUMIDITY BOX FOR REPTILES

A humidity box can be an excellent way to provide the proper moisture required in the environment of a number of reptile and amphibian species.  This is important to help the pet shed its skin normally, and can be accomplished without making the entire cage too moist.  The box can also serve as a hiding place, helping with the mental wellbeing of the pet as well as a soaking area.  The box is simple to construct and maintain, and has proven to be most useful to such species as iguanas, prehensile tailed skinks, snakes (especially ball pythons), and some amphibians such as tree frogs.

To construct a humidity box one needs to purchase:

1. Sphagnum moss – sold in packets in a dry form in most large garden center stores.  It is brown in color and consists of long strands.  Alternatively one may use Vermiculite which is more of a granular product (found also in garden centers), but has the disadvantage that it tends to stick to the pet and subsequently get dragged around the cage.
2. Plastic box with a lid – of the appropriate size for your pet.  The box should be of such a size that the pet can enter the box, turn around and exit through the same opening.  The fit should be fairly snug.  If the box is too large, there may be a tendency for the pet to defecate in the corner.

Making the box:

1. Cut a hole in the lid of the box or at one end of the box.  The hole should be large enough for the pet to enter and leave the box easily.  No other holes should be put in the box, or the contents may dry out too quickly.
2. Loosely pack the box with the dry sphagnum moss, and then wet it down with water.  If Vermiculite is being used, fill the box about ½ full and moisten it in the same manner.  Let the moss sit for 10 to 15 minutes to absorb the water, then pick it up in handfuls and squeeze out the excess water as you would a sponge.  Pour off any excess water in the box, and replace the moistened moss and the lid.  Viola!  You have the finished product.
3. Place the box in the cage near a heat source.  No more than half of the box should be over the heat or it will dry too quickly.  If it is not warmed at all, the reptile will not be comfortable in it.  Place the pet in it once, then let it enter and leave the box as it wants.  Many people note that their pets will spend hours in the box at a time and then ignore it for long periods.  Let your pet decide.
4.  Check the moisture content and the cleanliness of the box every 1-2 days.  If the animal does not defecate or take food particles in the box, the moss may stay clean for up to 2 weeks.  If there is any of a stale odor, fecal material or any other debris in the box remove the moss and replace with clean moss.  The box should be disinfected periodically by filling it with a mild bleach solution and letting it stand for 30 minutes.  Additional moisture can be added between moss changes by spraying the moss with water.

Care of Ferrets

DIET

FOOD:  Ferrets are carnivores, meaning that they are strictly meat eaters.  It has been shown that they only utilize amino acids from meat proteins (cannot digest amino acids from plant proteins).  Many of the cat foods available in the grocery stores have cereal or plant proteins in their formulation, so they are not ideal.  We suggest the use of specific ferret diets, or if you must use cat food, use a high quality brand such as Iams, or Pro-Plan.  All of these diets are made up of highly digestible top quality meat proteins.  For the young ferret (under three years of age) we recommend the growth (or kitten) formulation of these diets because of the higher protein and fat content.  For older ferrets that are over five years of age your veterinarian may recommend using the maintenance (or adult cat formula), particularly if your ferret is experiencing any kidney or liver problems.  Another consideration is that if the content of cereal grains (particularly the corn) is too high, it may lead to the formation of bladder stones.  We rarely see any bladder stone problems on the diets recommended specifically for ferrets.  Ferrets also have a high dietary fat requirement.  The food should be fed as a dry kibble unless there is a medical reason to do otherwise.  Usually food can be left out to be eaten free choice.  In cases of obesity, the daily ration should be measures and divided into 2-3 smaller feedings.

WATER:  Clean, fresh water should always be available and can be given in either a water bottle, heavy ceramic container, or a weighted bowl.  Ferrets like to play in their water and overturn it.  Keep this in mind when selecting a container. Water supplements are generally not needed.

VITAMINS:   If your pet is healthy and on a good quality diet, then additional vitamins are not necessary.  Your veterinarian will prescribe any that might be needed in the case of disease.

TABLE FOODS:  Cooked meat and egg scraps are suitable table foods to offer your pet as a treat.  Do not feed anything that contains bones.  Many ferrets also adore a bit of fruit or vegetable, but these items should be fed sparingly.  Ferrets don’t easily digest their high fiber content.  Too much fruit or vegetable matter intake could lead to diarrhea.  The rule of thumb is to feed no more than a total of one heaping teaspoon per day/ferret of any treat.  Some favorite fruit and vegetable treats include cucumber, green pepper, and melon.

NEVER FEED YOUR PET FOODS THAT ARE HIGH IN REFINED SUGARS!  Ferrets do not naturally get sugar in their diet and feeding foods high in sugar puts a tremendous strain on their pancreas.  The result of sugar ingestion may lead to diabetes mellitus, which is extremely difficult to treat in the ferret and may ultimately leads to an early death.  Do not feed candies, cakes, sugar coated cereals, ice cream, chocolate, sweet dairy products, etc.

FATTY ACID SUPPLEMENTS: As previously mentioned, ferrets have a high fat requirement and it may be necessary for some animals to have an additional supplement to improve coat quality.  This is most essential during the winter months, when the air in our homes is very dry and detrimental to the ferrets skin and coat.  We recommend using a feline or ferret fatty acid supplement  (such as Linotone or Ferotone) and feeding 1/8 tsp. per ferret daily on the food.  Many ferrets really love the taste and will readily take it right from the spoon!  Ferrets can also be supplemented with meat fat (such as from poultry or beef) in the amount of 1 teaspoon of fat per ferret per day, but this should be from cooked meat.

HAIRBALL LAXATIVE:  The accumulation of hair in the stomach of a ferret is very common (especially in animals greater than one year of age) and may require a costly surgery to remove.  To prevent hairballs, use any cat hairball laxative at the label recommended doses.  These products generally come as a sticky paste, and ferrets usually love the taste!  We recommend giving a one half to one inch ribbon to your ferret at least every third day.  This medication acts only as a lubricant and should not cause diarrhea.  If your pet has never been exposed to these products, it may be necessary to smear a little on their lips in order to introduce them to the taste.

 ENVIRONMENT

CAGE:  A wire rabbit cage (24”x24”x18” high) is a basic cage used to house up to two ferrets.  The solid floored cages are safer and easier on the feet.  Newspaper or pelleted bedding such as CelluDri, Mountain Cat Country Litter, Harvest Litter, Yesterday’s News, etc. may be used as bedding, or towels can be used.  Aquariums are not suitable cages for ferrets because the ventilation is very poor.  Many other types of elaborate caging arrangements can be built by the creative owner.  The use of a section of PVC pipe or large cardboard mailing tube can provide a good place for the ferrets to exercise and play.  IT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED THAT YOUR PET IS CAGED WHEN YOU ARE NOT HOME to prevent any tragic accidents.

SLEEPING AREA:  An enclosed sleeping area is NECESSARY to prevent your pet from becoming frustrated which may lead to continual digging at the corner of the cage.  A sleeping area can be as simple as a towel, a shirt, an old stocking cap, a cardboard or wooden box with a hole cut in the side, the sleeve of a sweatshirt, etc.  Please note that if your ferret likes to chew and eat towels or cloth, use a box or deep pan instead of towels to prevent an obstruction of the intestinal tract.  The cloth eating habit is usually a baby behavior and stops by the time the pet is a year of age.  It may occur in older ferrets when food is not available free choice.

LITTER BOX:  Ferrets can be litter box trained about 90% of the time.  A small low sided box should be placed in the preferred toilet area of the cage.  (i.e.- let your pet pick the spot first, then place the box in that area).  You can use kitty litter (avoid perfumed and sand types), or pelleted bedding (as described in the paragraph on caging) in the box.  The biggest problem with clay and sand kitty litter is that some ferrets will lie in their litter boxes, causing their coats to dry out and become brittle and dull looking.  Ferrets do not cover up their waste, therefore it will be necessary to change the box frequently to minimize the odor.  When your pet is loose in the house, it may be necessary to place several litter boxes or papers in various corners.  Ferrets are not very good at returning to “home base” if they get the bathroom urge and are far away from their usual waste area!

 TOYS: – NEVER GIVE YOUR PET ANY RUBBER TOYS!  Ferrets like to chew and swallow rubber which could result in an intestinal obstruction and even death.  Make sure to FERRET PROOF your home and remove access to any rubber items including earphones, stereo speakers, rubber-soled shoes, pipe insulation, rubber bands, chair bottom protectors, etc.  While you are at it, make sure to get down on your hands and knees and check for any escape holes that the ferret could get into, and plug them up!  Ferrets also like to burrow into furniture and mattresses in search of a snug sleeping area.  In the process they may swallow some of the foam rubber stuffing and develop an intestinal obstruction.  It is important to cover the bottom of the furniture with hardware cloth or a sheet of wood to prevent this from happening.  Recliner chairs are also safety hazards and many a pet has lost its life by being suffocated/crushed when the chair was reclined

Safe toys for your pet include nylon bones, ping-pong and golf balls, small cans, paper bags, cardboard mailing tubes, and very hard plastic toys.  Most cloth toys are also suitable, but check carefully for the first week of introduction to make sure your pet is not chewing off any pieces.

VACCINATIONS

CANINE DISTEMPER – THIS DISEASE IS NEARLY 100% FATAL IN THE FERRET!  Please have your pet vaccinated to prevent distemper.  Even if the pet never leaves the house, it is possible to bring the virus home on your shoes or your clothing.  Youngsters should receive their last booster at 14 weeks of age.  Thereafter, boosters should be given annually.

RABIES – There is an approved rabies vaccine for ferrets.  We recommend the vaccine for all ferrets that will be in any high-risk situation where a potential bite may occur.  The first vaccine should be given at three months of age with annual boosters thereafter.

MEDICAL PROBLEMS

VACCINE REACTIONS- Vaccine reactions are very common and can be quite severe in the ferret.  For this reason we recommend pre-medicating with injectable anti-inflammatories at least 15 minutes prior to the vaccine injections.  This is hoped to lessen the severity or prevent the vaccine reaction entirely.  Despite these precautions, some reactions will occur and can vary from as little as lethargy to as severe as shock, bloody vomiting and diarrhea and even death.  Due to this, it is recommended that you remain in the hospital for at least 30 minutes after a vaccine appointment.  Prompt medical intervention can usually save the ferrets life and speed recovery.  Alert your vet to any previous vaccine reactions in your pet.

STRONG BODY ODOR – The ferret produces oily skin secretions that have a very strong odor in the mature intact male and female.  The odor is regulated by sex hormones, therefore, when your pet is neutered the odor is largely reduced.  There is also an odor associated with the anal glands (or scent glands) of the ferret, but this is usually not a problem unless your ferret sprays as fear response.  Most ferrets do not express their scent glands frequently, and when they do, the odor only lasts a few minutes.  Unless there is a disease present, it is generally unnecessary to remove the scent glands.

BATHING should be done with a gentle pet shampoo.  Ferrets do not need frequent baths; every two weeks is the most that is suggested in order to maintain a healthy fur coat.  Bathing strips the skin of its essential oils and can lead to a dry itchy condition if performed too often.

FATAL ANEMIA OF FEMALES – When the female ferret goes into her heat cycle, she will remain in that cycle until she is bred by a male.  During this heat period the levels of the female hormone, estrogen, are very high which can have a damaging effect on the bone marrow.  The hormone causes the bone marrow to gradually stop producing white and red blood cells.  The condition comes on very gradually and by the time the external signs of anemia are seen, the changes in the bone marrow are irreversible.  If this is the case, the ferret will likely die despite therapy.

The condition is totally prevented by having your pet spayed.  The operation should be performed by the time the pet is six months of age.  If your pet comes into heat prior to this time, she can still be safely operated on.

If you wish to breed your pet, but do not wish to do it during a particular heat cycle, a hormone injection can be given to take her out of heat temporarily.  Due to adverse side effects, these injections should not be used in place of spaying if you have no intention of breeding you pet.

FLEAS –Do not use flea collars on ferrets.  Remember it is ideal to treat the house and yard with an insect growth regulator (IGR), as fleas spend most of their life cycle off of your pet laying eggs all over the environment.  Ask your veterinarian about the use of newer products such as Advantage, Revolution, and Frontline.  These products are safer and more effective than over-the-counter products.

HEARTWORM – Ferrets are susceptible to heartworm disease.  This is a microscopic parasite that lives in the salivary glands of the mosquito and is transmitted to the pet through a mosquito bite.  The larvae then grow into large worms that eventually lodge in the animal’s heart and cause disruption of blood flow and even death.

We recommend the use of a heartworm preventatives, given once a month, all year round if you live in an endemic area.  There have been no major side effects to these drugs.  We recommend that ferrets should be on heartworm preventative if they will come into contact with mosquitoes, especially if you travel to areas with them that are heartworm endemic.

COLDS AND FLU – Ferrets are highly susceptible to human colds and flu.  They will develop the same symptoms as humans do.  These include runny nose, watery eyes, and sometimes sneezing or coughing fits, sometimes leading to decreased appetite for several days.  Occasionally a pet may have diarrhea.  If it is profuse, bloody or accompanied by straining or crying, your veterinarian should be contacted immediately.  For generic flu-like symptoms, there is usually no need for any medications, just tender loving care and lots of rest and fluids for five to seven days.  If, however, your pet completely loses its appetite, develops green or yellow eye or nasal discharges, or becomes depressed or lethargic, please call your veterinarian right away.  Some viral flu infections require more intensive supportive care and if secondary bacterial infections occur, usually call for antibiotics.

FOREIGN BODIES IN THE STOMACH OR INTESTINE – As mentioned previously, ferrets are very apt to eat rubber, and they are also prone to developing hairballs.  Other items that ferrets have been known to eat include soft plastic items, cotton balls, bones, and towels.  The signs of a foreign body obstruction are varied, depending on where the material has lodged.  Some signs include gradual wasting, extreme depression or lethargy, vomiting, persistent dark tarry stools, and loss of appetite.  If any of these signs are present, do not wait!  Have him/her examined as soon as possible by your veterinarian.  EXTREME LETHARGY OR DEPRESSION IS AN EMERGENCY!

GERIATRIC DISEASES – Unfortunately the average life span of the American ferret is only five to seven years.  Starting at about three years of age we see a marked increase in a variety of diseased in the ferret.  Cancer is very common, along with liver, adrenal, kidney, and heart disease.  We recommended annual blood screenings to make early detection and more successful treatment/management of these diseases.  Also, older ferrets often require dental cleanings.

*FINAL NOTE:  There has been much negative publicity about the ferret over the years.  Most is due to ignorance and misunderstandings about these fascinating little animals.  The ferret is a domesticated animal that has been bred in captivity since 4 BC.  The ferrets we keep as pets are not found naturally in this country, but were descended originally from Europe, where their wild counterparts still occur naturally.

Being a pet owner requires a certain amount of responsibility to protect the animal and care for it.  If children under six years of age are in the household, we counsel you to carefully supervise any contact these little ones may have with the ferret.  If supervision is not possible, then wait to get a ferret until the child is older.  This warning holds true for any pet.  In addition, do not place your pet ferret (or any other pet for that matter) in a situation with other humans where it is likely to become frightened or threatened.  This may lead to a defensive reaction such as biting.

By being responsible pet owners we can do much to reverse the bad press that our little friends have received.

Care of Rabbits

Compiled by Maxwell Conn, DVM

Rabbits make intelligent , friendly and quiet house pets.  The average life span for a bunny is 7-10 years, with up to 15 years being occasionally reported.  The following information is designed to help you take the best care of your pet and enjoy a happy, healthy life with him or her.

DIET

• Rabbit Pellets – A good quality rabbit pellet may be offered daily but in limited quantities.  The uncontrolled feeding of pelleted diet can lead to obesity, heart and liver disease, chronic soft stools, kidney disease, and bladder stones which result from the high concentrations of carbohydrates, low fiber and high calcium levels in the pellets.  Make sure that you buy pellets high in fiber (18% or more) and that you buy small quantities.  Keep the pellets refrigerated or cool and try to prevent spoilage.  Old rancid pellets can cause a rabbit to stop eating.  A good source of pellets is Oxbow Hay found on the web at www.oxbowhay.com.  They even offer a Timothy based pellet.

• The following chart shows daily amounts to be fed to your bunny.  Do not refill the bowl even if the pellets are all eaten before the next day.  Overfeeding of pellets is the number one health problem that we see.  Keep your rabbit healthy by not overdoing it!  Slight adjustments can be made for very thin rabbits.

• Rabbits up to 8 months of age can have access to pellets free choice, because they are still growing rapidly.***  However, after 8 months of age they should receive the following maintenance diet:

2-4 lb. Of body weight – 1/8 cup daily     8-10 lb. Of body weight – ½ cup daily

5-7 lb. Of body weight – ¼ cup daily       11-15 lb. Of body weight – ¾ cup daily

• Please note that these food amounts are for the maintenance of the non breeding, mature, house rabbit.  If you intend to breed your pet, then we suggest doubling the daily pellet amounts during the breading season.  For does that are nursing babies, the pellets should be increased over a 4-5 day period to free choice until the babies are weaned.  After the breeding period is over, resume feeding at the maintenance levels listed above.  In some situations, your veterinarian may recommend that pellets be totally removed from the diet.  Do not become alarmed because your pet will be able to receive all the nutrients necessary from the hay and fresh foods that you will be instructed to feed.  Rabbits are also very efficient at making their own vitamin and minerals in the form of cecotropes (see night  droppings).  Complete removal of pellets from the diet is commonly the treatment suggested by our hospital for very overweight bunnies that need to lose weight safely, or for rabbits with chronic soft stools.

• Hay – TIMOTHY OR OTHER GRASS HAYS SHOULD BE OFFERED DAILY IN UNLIMITED AMOUNTS.  It is important that hay be available at all times for your pet. Rabbits tend to eat small amounts of food frequently throughout the day and withholding food for long periods of time can lead to intestinal upset.

• We prefer the loose, long strands of hay as opposed to the pressed cubes or chopped hay.  The fiber in the hay is extremely important in promoting normal intestinal motility.  Hay also contains proteins, and other nutrients essential to the good health of your pet.  We no longer recommend the routine use of alfalfa hay, particularly if it is being used along with pellets (which are already high in alfalfa).  It may provide too much calcium and extra carbohydrates (and calories) which may lead to serious health problems and digestive upsets.  If the rabbit is on a no pellet diet, then alfalfa may be used as directed by your veterinarian, but weight loss may be more difficult to achieve.

• Check with your local pet stores for timothy hay and other types of grass hay.  Also check with local feed stores and horse barns, because many of these places will sell you a “flake” of hay off a bale at a nominal cost.  Hay should be stored in cool, dry place with good air circulation (don’t close it tightly in a plastic bag).  Discard wet or damp hay, or any hay that does not have a “fresh” smell.  One efficient way to offer the hay is to use a hayrack on the outside of the cage.  Your pet can pull the hay into the cage through the bars as he or she needs it.  This keeps the hay clean and dry and eliminates much of the waste.

• At certain times of the year and in certain locations, it may be difficult to obtain grass hay.  At these times it is acceptable to use hays mixed with alfalfa, or use strictly alfalfa hay for a short period of time.  The most important thing is to always have hay available to the pet.  Remember, we are restricting the pellets, and the hay is a major source of fiber and nutrients.

• Fresh Foods – These foods should be given daily.  Rabbits in the wild eat a lot of tough, fibrous plants.  Their digestive tract functions best when it has a high level of fiber, which helps to maintain the intestinal motility.  If your pet is not used to getting any fresh foods, you should start out gradually with the leafy veggies listed below and add a new food item from the list every 3-5 days.

• Young bunnies should be introduced to new foods gradually.  However, once your pet is eating fresh foods, try to give it a minimum of three types daily.  We find the addition of these fresh fibrous foods helps (along with the hay) in the prevention of a sluggish digestive tract, accumulation of material in the stomach, chronic diarrhea, and as a bonus, your bunny will love you for it!

• The following are all foods that you can try with your pet.  The minimum amount of fresh food that can be given daily is about 1 heaping cup per five pounds of body weight.  You may certainly give more as long as your pet is eating hay in addition to the greens.  Because fresh vegetables are not as concentrated in nutrients per pound as the dry hay, you should not depend on the greens alone to maintain your pet’s weight.  Rabbits must have hay as well as greens in the diet!

• Here are some examples of food items that you can feed your pet: Carrot tops, beet tops, dandelion greens and flowers (these are excellent, but no pesticides please), kale, collard greens, escarole, romaine lettuce, (don’t give light colored leaf lettuce or iceberg lettuce), endive, Swiss chard, parsley, clover, cabbage, broccoli (don’t forget the leaves), carrot, green peppers, pea pods (the flat edible kind), Brussel sprouts, basil, peppermint leaves, raspberry leaves, raddichio, bok choy and spinach.  Try to feed at least three different types of greens each day.  Feeding just one type of green food alone (especially broccoli, cabbage, Brussel sprouts and spinach) may lead to nutrient imbalances.  The packages of premixed salad greens are usually not sufficient for the bunny’s needs, as they contain a lot of low nutrient lettuces (such as iceberg).  Never use these premixes as more than a third of the daily greens.

• Treat Foods – In a total (of combined foods) amount of 2 heaping tablespoons per 4 lbs. of body weight daily, you can give the following foods: Strawberries, papaya, pineapple, apple, pear, melon, raspberries, blueberries, mango, cactus fruit, persimmon, peach or tomato.  Banana can be “addicting” and fattening and we don’t recommend using it with your pet unless it is only as an occasional treat.  Dried fruits may be used as an alternative to their fresh counterparts listed above, but use half of the amount.

• WE DO NOT RECOMMEND GIVING ANY OF THE FOLLOWING FOODS ROUTINELY BECAUSE OF THEIR POTENTIAL FOR CAUSING DIETARY UPSET AND OBESITY: salty or sugary snacks, nuts, chocolate, breakfast cereals, and other grains (including oatmeal, corn either fresh or dried, or bread).

• Water – This should always be available, and changed daily.  A dirty water container can breed bacteria that can cause disease.  The container can be either a water bottle or a heavy bowl that is weighted or secured to the side of the cage so that it does not tip over.  Do not use medications or vitamins in the water, because your pet may not drink if the taste or color is altered.

• Vitamins – These are not felt to be necessary if the rabbit is getting pellets, hay and fresh foods in the diet.  In fact, the indiscriminate use of vitamins may lead to overdose and serious disease.  Rabbits produce their own vitamins by way of their cecotropes (see night droppings).

• Salt or Mineral Block – Not necessary for the house pet on the described diet.

• Night Droppings (Cecotropes) – It may seem strange to list this as a part of the diet, but these “special droppings” known as cecotropes, are an essential part of your pet’s nutrition.  During certain times of the day, usually about 4-6 hours after eating, you may observe your pet licking the anal area and actually eating some of the droppings in the process.

• Cecotropes (night droppings) are softer, greener, and have a stronger odor than the normal hard, dry, round waste droppings.  They come directly from the cecum, which is a part of the digestive system where fermentation of food takes place.  The cecum is located at the junction of the small and large intestine.  In the cecum, the indigestible portions of the diet are broken down by bacteria, which then produce fatty acids, amino acids (protein), and vitamins and minerals.  Some of these nutrients are absorbed directly through the wall of the cecum, but most of the nutrients are kept inside the bacteria, which are then excreted in the cecotropes.  Your pet knows when these droppings are being produced and will take care of eating them himself.  After eating these “vitamin pellets” your pet will re-digest the material and extract all the necessary nutrients.  This habit may appear distasteful to us, but it is normal and important for your pet.  In fact, in this way, the rabbit can survive in the wild on food that other animals might not be able to thrive on because they were not able to digest and assimilate nutrients from it.  In this way, the rabbit does an excellent job producing its own nutritional supplements.

• Occasionally a rabbit will drop these cecal pellets along with the waste pellets rather than eating them.  They will be softer, brighter green, come in clumps and are misshapen, but formed, and have an odor.  This is not diarrhea and if it only occurs occasionally it is not considered a disease problem.  Some rabbits that are sufficiently overweight can’t reach their anal area to eat the cecotropes and may leave a lot of these special droppings in the cage.  A diet that is low in fiber or high in starches may also lead to the chronic and persistent production of cecotropes that are too soft and liquid to be eaten, and are left in little puddles around the environment mixed with the normal waste stools.

ENVIRONMENT

• ·         Cage – A metal cage may be used with a wire flooring of 14 gauge wire (1” x ½” square openings).  A solid floored area is necessary to prevent sore hocks and to provide an area for resting.  The size of the cage should be at least 24” x 24” x 18” high for the small and medium sized breeds and 36” x 36” x 24” high for the large breeds.  You can use a towel (unless you have a pet that likes to eat towels), or a piece of carpeting or wood for the solid area.  We have found that the “synthetic fleece” cloth that is sold in fabric stores (in a variety of colors) works very nicely, as it is washable and if the pet chews on it there are no long strands of fabric that can get caught in the digestive tract.  Newspaper can be used under the wire-mesh floor.  Do not use aquariums or solid walled cages because the lack of sufficient air circulation has been directly correlated with an increase in respiratory disease.

If you are going to have your bunny roaming the house all or most of the time, make sure that you eliminate areas that your pet can get wedged in, or escape through.  Also mind electrical cords (which rabbits like to chew), carpeting (which they like to dig up and chew), and any toxic materials such as rodent poisons that your pet could get into.  Get on your hands and knees and “bunny proof” your home.

• Litter Box – Rabbits can be litter box trained relatively easily.  Initially you need to keep your pet in a small area, either in a cage or in a blocked off section of the room and place a litter box in the corner (try to pick the corner that your pet has already used).  Make sure the sides of the box are low enough so your pet can get in and out easily.  It is helpful to put some of the dropping in the box.  Some people have also found it helpful to put some hay in the box to encourage defecation (they usually pass stool while they are eating).  You can reward your pet with one of the treat foods listed previously whenever he or she has used the box successfully.  Do not punish your pet while it is in the litter box.  Do not worry if your pet sits for extended periods in the box.  This should be tolerated as long as he is not soiling himself and the box is cleaned frequently.

• Bedding – Pelleted paper or other organic products make the best bedding.   These products are non toxic and digestible if eaten, easier to clean up than shavings or clay litter, control odor better and are compostable.  Some examples are Cellu-DRI and Yesterday’s News (paper products), Mountain Cat Kitty Litter or Harvest Litter (pelleted wheat grass products), and Gentle Touch (pelleted aspen shavings).

• Temperature – Rabbits should be kept in the COOLEST and least humid area of the house.  Studies have shown that bunnies kept in warm, humid environments with poor air circulation, have a dramatic increase in the incidence of respiratory disease over those that are kept in cool, dry environments with good air circulation.  Damp basements are one of the worst areas to keep your pet.  If your rabbit must be kept in the basement, invest in a dehumidifier and a fan to keep out dampness and improve air circulation.

The optimum temperature range for a bunny is 60-70 degrees F.  When the temperature gets in into the mid 70’s one may see and increase in drooling, and nasal discharge.  If temperatures reach the upper 80’s and above, especially if the humidity is high, the potential for a fatal heat stroke is very real.  On hot days, when the air conditioning is not available, it is helpful to leave a plastic milk jug filled with frozen water in the cage as a portable “air conditioner”.

Please keep fresh, cool water available, as this will also help to keep the body temperature down.  If your pet should actually experience a heat stress reaction, try holding an ice cube on the ear or gently wetting your pet down with cool (not cold) water.  If the heat stoke is severe, veterinary attention will be necessary.

If your bunny is being kept outdoors in either warm or cold weather, make sure that part of the cage is sheltered from the wind and sun.  For the winter it is advisable to use straw bedding in the sheltered area for insulation and make sure that the water bowl is changed daily, as your pet can dehydrate rapidly if the water is frozen for more than a day.

HANDLING

There are a number of ways to pick up your pet, depending on how calm he is and his size.  The main thing to remember is always support the hindquarters to prevent serious spinal injuries.  Rabbit’s backbones are fragile and can easily fracture if the hind legs are allowed to dangle and the animal gives a strong kick.  Unfortunately, these injuries are usually permanent and frequently result in the euthanasia of the pet, so prevention is critical.  Never pick up a bunny by its sensitive ears, it’s very painful and totally unnecessary!  It is better to grasp the loose skin over the shoulders or scoop up under the chest and then place your other hand under the back legs to lift your bunny from the floor.  Work near the floor when first learning to handle your pet so that if he jumps out of your arm’s he won’t have far to go. It is a good idea when you bring your pet in for an annual exam to ask your veterinarian to demonstrate proper handling techniques.

It may also be useful to put your bunny on its back when trying to trim nails and examine the underside of your pet.  Most rabbits will learn to relax in this position and withstand quite a bit of handling.  Sit on the floor and put the rabbit on its back with its head just over the edge of your knees so that it hangs down a little.  Restrain the body firmly between your thighs, and place one hand over the chest to prevent it from turning over.  Talk softly and stroke its chest and abdomen gently.  It may be necessary to have a second person hold the legs when first learning to trim nails in this position.  However, many pets become so relaxed that one person can do all the grooming by himself or herself.

MEDICAL PROBLEMS

Females – A leading cause of death in female rabbits is a cancer of the uterus called adenocarcinoma.  This is a malignant disease, and unfortunately once diagnosed, it may have spread to other areas of the body.  This cancer is preventable by having your pet spayed between 4 months and 2 years of age.  The spay procedure involves removal of the animals uterus and ovaries and helps to prevent the occurrence of breast cancer later in life.

Males – Some male bunnies, especially the dwarf varieties, may become extremely aggressive when they reach sexual maturity.  There may be excessive biting and spraying of urine outside of the regular litter box area.  The urine may develop a very strong and unpleasant odor due to the presence of male hormones, and these little men may not groom themselves well, developing stained and messy tail areas.  These males may start attacking other rabbits, potentially causing serious bite wounds.  The best solution to these behavioral problems is castration (surgical removal of the testicles).  This procedure is recommended any time after 4 months of age.

Overgrown teeth – overgrown incisors (the front teeth) are usually caused by a congenital defect.  Other causes can be injury or trauma to the teeth, infection in the roots of the incisors, or malalignment or infection in the molars (the back teeth).

Rabbits’ teeth grow continuously throughout their life.  If the incisors or molars are not lined up properly then they do not get worn down, which results in overgrowth.  Overgrown teeth can cause mouth infections, ulceration of the lips and tongue and inability to pick up and eat food.  The most common treatment for these overgrowths is to have the teeth trimmed periodically (every 3-8 weeks).  We do not recommend the use of nail trimmers for this procedure, because it can easily result in the fracture of the incisor deep under the gum, with the potential for subsequent gum infection.  Your veterinarian will use a special instrument to trim the teeth more safely.  If the molars are involved, or if the animal is very skittish, a general anesthetic may be required for the teeth trimming procedure.  A permanent cure for overgrown incisors is the complete removal of the incisors under general anesthesia.  Rabbits are able to eat normally afterwards and teeth trimming will obviously no longer be necessary.  If your pet has teeth problems. Please discuss the options with your veterinarian.

Loss of Appetite – There are a variety of reasons why a bunny will lose his/her appetite.  The most common reason in our experience is a diet low in fiber and high in calories.  This combination can lead to obesity, fatty liver disease, sluggish movement of the intestinal tract, and accumulation of hair and food in the stomach which then makes the rabbit not feel like eating.  When the rabbit doesn’t eat, the intestinal tract stops moving and the problem escalates.  We consider “hairballs” to be a symptom of other problems (usually a poor diet) and usually not a primary disease.  Angora breeds, which have very long hair, may be an exception to this rule, because the length of their hair may make it difficult to pass.

Another common condition that can cause appetite loss is dental disease.  Overgrown molars that have sharp edges (which lacerate the tongue), and an abscesses of any of the tooth roots can cause a pet to cease eating due to pain.

Less common, but very serious conditions that can also lead to appetite loss include uterine infections, abscesses, respiratory tract infections, gastrointestinal infections, middle ear infections, eating toxic materials and bladder and kidney infections.

Loss of appetite is something that should be investigated by your veterinarian within 48 hours even if the pet is acting normally.  Rabbits rapidly develop a deteriorating condition of the liver when they go without food for long periods of time.  If the liver deteriorates excessively, there may be no way to reverse the process.  Early diagnosis and treatment of appetite loss is the best way to save your pet’s life.

Pasturellosis – A large percentage of rabbits harbor a bacteria in their sinuses called Pasturella multocida.  This bacteria doesn’t cause a problem in most bunnies with a healthy immune system.  However, under certain stress situations, such as a poor diet, high environmental temperatures, poor air circulation, overcrowding, moving, etc., this bacteria can reproduce rapidly and cause potentially serious disease.

This bacteria may cause infections of the upper respiratory tract, uterus, skin, kidney, bladder, tear ducts, middle ears or lungs.  Please have your pet examined if you observe any discharges around the eyes, nose or anal areas, or if there is a loss of appetite, depression, diarrhea, head tilt, loss of balance, or labored breathing.  NEVER attempt to use antibiotics without veterinary supervision.  Your pet’s gastrointestinal tract is an extremely delicate organ, dependent on large populations of healthy bacteria to digest the food.  If inappropriate antibiotics are given indiscriminately, death may result because the antibiotics had killed the normal bacteria in the gut which led to an overgrowth of the deadly bacteria.

Diarrhea – True diarrhea is not common in the rabbit.   This is a condition where all stool being passed is in a liquid form.  This is usually a very serious condition and should be seen by your veterinarian immediately.  Some serious gastrointestinal conditions that result in diarrhea can be fatal in less than 24 hours.

What most people refer to as diarrhea, is an intermittent passing of soft liquid or pudding-like stools.  The rabbit will also pass normal formed stools.  The soft stools may be seen more frequently at certain times of the day (many times overnight) and may have a strong odor and accumulate on the rabbit’s fur.  The liquid stools are actually the cecotropes (see night droppings) that are unformed.  There are a variety of reasons for this condition, but by far the most common condition is the lack of sufficient fiber in the diet and obesity.  Eliminating the pellets from the diet and feeding good quality grass hay only for one to three months may clear up the problem.  Consult your veterinarian if your pet has this condition before making any drastic changes to the diet.

A good publication that is well written and of interest to the house rabbit owner is theHouse Rabbit Journal.  Write to House Rabbit Society, 1615 Encinal Ave., Alameda, Ca. 94501 or call 510-521-4631.  We also recommend the House Rabbit Handbook.   Please visitwww.rabbit.org

Above all, enjoy your pet and give him/her your love and affection.  Your pet deserves it, and she/he will repay you with years of enjoyment and the opportunity to see life at a slower, calmer, “bunny pace”.